Notes from our latest exceptional private charter, cruising from Raja Ampat to North Sulawesi, as told by our own in-house expert private guide, Richard Phillips.
There are journeys, and then there are transformative odysseys that redefine the very essence of exploration. As I embarked on a 40-day yacht charter through the Indonesian archipelago with some of our most adventurous guests, I knew I was about to experience the latter – a voyage where each sunrise signalled new wonders, each dive unveiled hidden marvels, and every sunset painted the sky with hues that defied imagination.
Our private charter began in the captivating waters of Raja Ampat, a name whispered reverently among seasoned travellers. But even this famed destination held secrets waiting to be uncovered, just beyond the reaches of ordinary itineraries. We set a course for Kofiau; along with Boo, these forgotten islands sit in the middle of central and southern Raja Ampat but are in-frequently visited by other vessels. Beginning in the morning on the south eastern side, we went diving on the corner of Wambong Kecil with its impressive corals in the shallows home to turtles, black tip reef sharks, Napolean wrasse and schools of barracuda patrolling the reef edge.
We cruised onwards to Pisang, a steep island dense with vegetation, and one of the most easterly locations you can find clove trees. Here, an underwater volcano awaited our discovery. As we descended into crystal-clear waters, a surreal landscape of bubbling thermal activity revealed itself – nature’s own jacuzzi hidden beneath the waves. The guests’ sense of awe was a match of my own as we found ourselves completely surrounded by bubbles coming up from the sand all around us in 12m depth on a mixed sand and coral bottom. The mystery deepened when we returned at night to find the bubbles had vanished, leaving only dimples in the sand – a reminder of the ever-changing nature of this underwater world.
In Kusu, within the challenging but incredibly rewarding Patinti Strait, I found myself considering the value of preparation. Identifying some of these promising locations well in advance certainly has its advantages. Chatting with a Swiss resort manager in the months before embarking helped lay the groundwork for the most European of trades: Bali-made Italian sausages and cheese in exchange for dive site information and tips. It was an uncannily invaluable exchange that paved the way to navigating the strait’s secrets. The clear blue waters are a haven for corals growing on the rocky topography here, while the currents present create a perfect ecosystem for pelagic hunters such as trevallies, barracuda and tuna. Sea fans also thrive here and there’s a lot of interesting macro to be found at night.
Our journey took us to remote atolls like Weda in Halmahera, where the concept of ‘untouched’ took on new meaning. Here, we left footprints on pristine beaches and explored vibrant coral reefs. But the wonders weren’t confined to the coast. Trekking into the lush forests of Bacan Island, our hearts raced with anticipation as we searched for a glimpse of the elusive standardwing bird of paradise. This westernmost species of its kind performs a mesmerising courtship dance – a spectacle few are privileged to witness.
Even having travelled extensively through Indonesia, this journey held more surprises than I could have imagined. In Bacan, we spent a morning cruising north through the narrow strait between Kasiruta and Bacan. Arriving on the northern points we dropped anchor in amongst a smattering of small islands, sending the drone up to take a look. It transpired the island we were next to had a mangrove system on the inside as well as a stunning lagoon. We grabbed water and a radio then left the boat by kayak, following our guests as we located the entrance and navigated the mangroves within before coming across the incredible lagoon. Exiting with sunset approaching, the crew had already prepared a beach setup on a nearby beach.
For a history buff like myself, the island of Morotai in North Halmahera offered a poignant journey back in time. Once the base of Allied operations in 1944, housing up to 61,000 personnel, the island now stands as a living museum of World War II’s Pacific theatre. Our exploration took an unexpected turn when we visited the home of Mr. Muhlis Eso. Not speaking a word of English but dripping with passion and enthusiasm, he proceeded to show us around what used to be his home and has now become a private museum. When I mentioned I was from the UK, he scurried behind a cabinet and returned with a mess tin engraved with the name of an American soldier – a tangible link to the island’s wartime past that sent shivers down my spine.
The culinary experiences on this journey were as diverse as the landscapes we explored. The most incredible off-board dining experience was most certainly on the island of Dodola. This incredible sandy spit was identified long before the voyage and it didn’t disappoint. The tides worked out perfectly, high enough to allow us to get the dinghy in to setup and then after lunch had finished the water rose up to cover the beach, allowing the guests a romantic post-lunch wade through the waters.
As we island-hopped through this vast archipelago, history unfolded before my eyes. The proud old sultanates of Jailolo, Bacan, Ternate, and Tidore beckoned, each a living museum of Indonesia’s rich cultural tapestry. We climbed the ramparts of the 17th-century Spanish fort Tahula, where we toasted the setting sun with cocktails as the light faded from the sky.
Nature had more spectacles in store. The most dramatic story of the trip was certainly the night of the eruption of Ruang. We lifted anchor following a night dive in Bangka with the intention of cruising north while the guests dined. As we rounded the corner of the island I was on the upper deck and looked to the north, where I could see intense electrical activity in the distant sky to the north. It’s not unusual to see the white flashes of lightning amongst clouds but this is normally spread over a larger area. Even more strangely, there were bright orange streaks running through the sky in amongst the incessant white flashing. I remained on the upper deck, alerting the crew as we sailed in its direction.
The night sky was illuminated by a bright moon almost full, its gaze eventually being swallowed by a huge circular cloud emanating from the volcanic island of Ruang that lay 30 miles to the north. It had been our intention to visit this island on our way back, though having witnessed this spectacular show we were forced to review our itinerary. I slept until 1am, waking to my alarm as I wanted to witness the view once we reached the closest point. Opening the door to my cabin I could only smell burnt rock. Looking out from the bridge it looked like a dark grey snowstorm, with visibility of less than 20m. It took three days to clear the volcanic ash from every corner of the boat’s exterior, a testament to the raw power of nature we had witnessed.
As the sun set on our 40-day odyssey, I came to the realisation that this was more than a vacation; it was a sensory experience that redefined my understanding of adventure, luxury, and the raw beauty of our planet. As I reflect on bubbling underwater volcanoes, elusive birds of paradise, erupting mountains, and millennia-old cultures, I carry with me a tapestry of memories from Indonesia, with its myriad islands and endless wonders.
In a world where true luxury is measured not in thread counts or brand names, but in the rarity and profundity of experiences, this Indonesian odyssey stands as a pinnacle of luxury travel. It is a journey that doesn’t just take you to a destination, but transports you to a realm of wonder, exclusivity, and life-changing moments. For those fortunate enough to embark on such an adventure, the rewards are beyond measure – a transformation of the soul, wrapped in the unparalleled luxury of discovery.
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