Notes from our journey aboard the Kudanil Explorer, traversing these storied waters where each day unfolds like a new chapter….
The morning sun glints off the waters of Laha Bay as our yacht gently rocks in the harbour of Ambon. I’m about to embark on an 11-day journey through what were once the most coveted waters in the world: Indonesia’s legendary Spice Islands. These scattered emeralds in the Banda Sea were, for centuries, the sole source of nutmeg and mace—spices worth their weight in gold to European traders. Today, they offer something equally precious: pristine coral reefs, untouched beaches, and a window into a fascinating colonial past.
As we slip our moorings and head into the Banda Sea, our captain points out a pod of dolphins playing in our wake. It’s a fitting sendoff from Ambon’s “twilight zone,” a legendary spot among diving enthusiasts for its rare marine life. The vast expanse of the Banda Sea stretches before us, and somewhere beyond the horizon lie the islands that changed the course of history.
Dawn breaks over Pulau Rhun on our second day, and I can’t help but smile at the delicious irony: this tiny speck of land was once traded by the British for New Amsterdam—now known as Manhattan. Standing on deck, watching the sunrise paint the sky in shades of saffron and rose, it seems impossible that such a small island could have played such an outsized role in shaping our modern world.
Our local guide leads us through groves of nutmeg trees, their yellow fruits split open to reveal the crimson web of mace wrapped around dark seeds. His passionate storytelling brings to life an era when these simple seeds were worth more than gold. Later, we dive off the northwest corner of the island, where schools of hammerhead sharks patrol the deep blue. The contrast between the peaceful island life above and the dramatic underwater topography below is striking.
The approach to Banda Neira harbour the next day is nothing short of cinematic. Gunung Api, an active volcano, looms over the colonial architecture like a watchful guardian. We zoom through the streets on the back of motorcycles, wind in our hair, past Dutch mansions and ancient spice warehouses. The smell of nutmeg seems to permeate everything, a subtle reminder of why European powers once fought so fiercely for control of these islands.
At dawn on our fourth day, I join an early trek up Gunung Api. The climb is challenging, but the reward is spectacular: a 360-degree view of the Banda archipelago scattered across the cerulean sea like a handful of emeralds. Later, we dive at “Lava Flow,” where nature has performed a miracle. A volcanic eruption once destroyed the reef here, but from this destruction has sprung one of the world’s most spectacular hard coral gardens—a testament to nature’s resilience.
The days begin to take on a dreamy quality as we island-hop through this remote paradise. At Pulau Hatta, named for Indonesia’s first vice president who was exiled here by the Dutch, we dive with hammerheads again. At Pulau Koon, we snorkel in waters so thick with fish that the site’s name—”Too Many Fish”—seems like an understatement.
As we cross into Raja Ampat, the landscape transforms. The iconic limestone karsts of Wayilbatan rise from the sea like ancient sentinels. We kayak through Neptune’s Passage, where giant sea fans wave in the current, and hike to the Instagram-famous “Love Lagoon,” its heart shape a natural frame for the tropical perfection below.
Our final days are spent exploring the maze-like waterways of Balbulol and the hauntingly beautiful “1000 Temples” area. We paddle through hidden lagoons, discover caves with prehistoric art, and watch the sun set from pristine beaches. On our last evening, as we sip sundowners on deck, I reflect on how these islands have cast their spell on travelers for centuries. The spice trade may be history, but the magic of these waters remains as potent as ever.
Watching our wake disappear into the sunset on our final crossing to Sorong, I understand why these islands have drawn explorers, traders, and dreamers for centuries. In an age when few corners of the Earth remain truly remote, the Spice Islands still feel like a secret waiting to be discovered—though this time, the treasure isn’t nutmeg or mace, but something far more precious: the simple pleasure of exploring one of the last pristine places on Earth.
This 11-day odyssey proved that while the spice trade may be history, the magic of these waters remains as intoxicating as ever. Whether you’re a history buff, diving enthusiast, or simply seeking the road less traveled, the Spice Islands offer a journey that’s impossible to forget.
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